A TOUR OF NACOGDOCHES (Cont...)

OLD WASHINGTON SQUARE.
Established: 1844-45. In 1845, Haden Edwards, Charles S. Taylor, and J. R. Arnold promised to the city of 21 1/2 acres of land to erect a building for the Nacogdoches University; the transfer of the deeds did not take place until 1855. The acreage was bounded on the south by Edwards Street, on the east by Mound Street, on the north by Hughes, and on the west by Fredonia. As a defined area, however, Washington Square goes back to the Caddo Indians. Their ceremonial plaza dates from between 1250 to 1450 A. D. The second building of Christ Episcopal Church (1902), now at the corner of Mound and Starr since 1940, originally sat on the corner of Arnold and Fredonia.

 

THE OLD UNIVERSITY BUILDING (Center of Washington Square)
Built: 1859. Architect: John H. Cato. The most prominent landmark on Old Washington Square is the Old University Building. Chartered in 1845 by the Republic, the University did not move into its permanent home on Washington Square until 1859. The building is one of the finest examples of Greek Revival architecture in the State of Texas. Of a modified temple design, with white Doric columns (solid brick covered with plaster), classical pilasters between the windows, and beautiful mouldings along the roof line and pediment. The red brick, hand-made in the county, are laid in an English bond pattern (every seventh row has the butt-end out). The building was used during the Civil War as a Confederate Hospital. After the war it became the headquarters for the occupying Union Army. When the University finally closed its doors in 1900, the Trustees transferred the land and building to the N. I. S. D. It served the school district as a chemistry building until the 1960's when its care was turned over to the Historical Commission and the Federation of Women's Clubs. The building is on the National Register of Historic Places and is a Recorded Texas Historic Landmark.*

*An Interesting Footnote. When the buildings of Stephen F. Austin State University were not completed in time for its initial opening in the fall of 1923, President Birdwell held the first semester of the new university in the Old University Building and other outbuildings.

 

D. RULFS, MASTER ARCHITECT OF NACOGDOCHES
Many of the remaining historic structures in downtown Nacogdoches were designed and built by the German-born architect Dietrich Anton Wilhem Rulfs. (Born in Oldenburg, Germany on March 6, 1848; died 1926 and buried in Oak Grove Cemetery.) When Rulfs brought his family to Nacogdoches in 1879, he found a late Republican frontier town with no paved streets and few brick buildings. By 1895, he had transformed the downtown; by his death, he had transformed the whole city. More than 50 structures from his distinguished career are extant in the city, many to be seen on these walking tours. Rulfs began his career in the Victorian period; his later works tend to be more classical with some Gothic and bungalow styles also.

Roland Jones House

 

THE ROLAND JONES HOUSE (141 North Church at Hospital)
Built: 1895. Architect: D. Rulfs. A fine example of late Victorian domestic architecture. The owner was Roland Jones, a cotton merchant. His wife liked to entertain. Rulfs designed the house accordingly. The first floor had only large public rooms; the bedrooms were on the second story. Except for the entrance on the north on Hospital Street, the house, with its elaborate trim and unusual shape, looks very much as it did in 1895 when it was built. Of special interest: the bay windows with curved glass on the north side; the double galleries and pulpit-divided front steps; the tower with the onion dome; the use of horseshoe detail in the front; the stained glass windows on the south side to light the central staircase yet give privacy; the mansard roof pierced by gables; the gingerbread. Even the interior, except for the floors, has much of its original integrity.

Tom Summers House

 

THE TOM SUMMERS HOUSE (304 North Church)
Built: 1890. Redesigned: 1914. Architect: D. Rulfs. D. Rulfs built the first story of this house in 1890 for Sarah Bagley and her husband. The land was purchased from the Trustees of the Nacogdoches University. In 1914, Mr. and Mrs. Tom H. Summers purchased the house and commissioned Mr. Rulfs to redesign and enlarge it. The second story dormer-rooms, the squared columns, the wrap-around gallery, the back porch with a built-in bathroom was added at this time.

THE LEE HARDEMAN HOUSE (316 North Church)
Built: 1892. Redesigned: 1912 Architect: D. Rulfs. The Hardeman family, one of the early pioneering families of Texas, can boast a Signer of the Texas Declaration of Independence, a Secretary of the Treasury under President Burnet, a member of the Second Congress of the Republic, and the honor of having counties in both Tennessee and Texas named after it. Lee Hardeman, originally of Melrose, moved to Nacogdoches in 1892 and built the first story of this house shortly thereafter. In 1912, after his family had grown, Hardeman commissioned D. Rulfs to enlarge the house. Rulfs added the second story, the wrap-around gallery, new siding, and reworked the interior by making the rooms more flexible with the addition of double sliding doors. Miss Gladys Hardeman, a noted local historian, continued to live in the house where she was born until her death in 1978. One of the three large mortuary mounds from the Caddo period was located on the back of this property and was removed in the early 1930's.

THE SARAH RICHARDSON HOUSE (315 North Church)
Built: 1897. Redesigned: 1920 Architect: D. Rulfs. Originally a complete double house with double galleries, round posts and lots of Victorian tracery. The second story was severly damaged by fire in 1915. In his redesign, Rulfs removed all the gingerbread, squared the columns, and reduced the second floor to a dormer storage room. The interior was made more "modern" by taking the front hall into the living room, turning the middle hall into a dining room, and transforming the old dining room into a master bedroom. The Haralson family bought the house in 1944. Only slight modifications have been made since 1915.

 

THE CHARLES PERKINS HOUSE (516 North Mound)
Built: 1900. Architect: D. Rulfs. This 2 1/2 story house has undergone few changes since it was built. The balastrade above the front entrance is an exception to this statement, however. The house is a fine example of Rulfs' architecture: wrap-around porch with wooden tuscan columns, arched Palladian windows and a dormer with diamond-patterned lights, a 2-story chamfered bay, elaborate brickwork on the chimney. The Charles Perkins House is now the residence of Dr. and Mrs. Robert Carroll.

 

THE TOLBERT HARDEMAN HOUSE (408 North Mound)
Built: 1899. Architect: D. Rulfs. Tol Hardeman was a brother and partner of Lee Hardeman in the wholesale grocery business. This two-story house has certain features that were popular in North Germany were Rulfs was born and trained. For instance, the square bay window on the northwest front with the balcony on top, covered by a shed roof. The use of the paired columns on an elevated base were elements Rulfs planned for the June Harris House on Virginia Avenue but did not use. The dental mouldings, double galleries, high pitched hipped roof pierced by a decorative gable were elements he used elsewhere. The house for a long time belonged to the Moon family before becoming Julia Taylor Antiques in the 1960's. Dr. and Mrs. William J. Brophy purchased the house in 1975.

Blount House Porch

 

THE JUDGE STEPHEN W. BLOUNT HOUSE (310 North Mound)
Built: 1895. Architect: D. Rulfs. Judge Stephen W. Blount, originally from San Augustine, had Rulfs design and build this two story Queen Ann/Eastlake style house in 1895. The impressive "gingerbread" was done by Dietrich's brother William Henry who had just immigrated to the United States from Germany. The left front bay with bowed front, the eyelet window in the gabled dormer in the roof, the decorative bargeboards, the asymmetrical double gallery with the unusual projecting bay at the corner, the use of the Palladian windows, etc.--all make this house one of the architect's best works. The house became a funeral home in the 1930's and the chapel was added in the 1950's. The house is now owned by William J. and Shelia G. Roberts who are in the process of restorating the structure.

 




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©Jere L. Jackson, Stephen F. Austin State University, PO Box 13013, Nacogdoches, Texas 75962 USA
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